How I skinned my electric bike battery box part 1

This video shows the final steps to the battery box fabrication. I added aluminum panels to the frame. This makes it look really nice and protects the batteries and wiring from the weather. It also makes the battery box look like an integral part of the bike and not like a mad science project gone bad. The next step is to make a lid. This will completely cover the top to make it look complete. The lid is a complex shape and requires bending. The final steps are to solder the internal battery charging connector that will connect the external one to the internal battery charging connector. I could have wired it directly but having connectors allow the batteries to be removed easily. For all posts relating to this project, go to For blogs about all projects, go to BionX battery
Video Rating: 4 / 5

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36 thoughts on “How I skinned my electric bike battery box part 1

  1. @j0x0r I slotted the key in because I wanted to be able to remove the batteries without disconnecting the key connector from the batteries. The wire connectors are taped down pretty good so it would be a pain to remove each time. I guess I could have done it either way though. Now that I think about it, I could have put bullet connectors on those wires. Next time.

  2. Yeah mate, the rack already is bending and I’m having to brace it all the time. I was going to go with Lifepo4’s but I can’t find a good deal and the ones from china maybe cheap but I don’t trust them. so, I am going to go with Phylions. They are lithium manganese. Much lighter and live longer than SLA

  3. @ElectricScotsman I’ve seen bats mounted in the frame but never tried it myself. Should be much better than on rack for sure.

  4. I hear you about having the batt pack on a rack, right now I am doing that. I don’t want to fab my bike just to host the SLA pack, since I am having a newer battery coming my way. That is going to be installed in the frame where a water bottle would go. SLA’s I have are 3 x 12Volts 12 AH wired in series, sitting on a rack that drives me up the wall when I hit a small bump.

  5. Not too much extra security needed. If someone had a screwdriver and wrench, they could just take the whole thing apart. The shell will slow a thief down or deter a vandal. Thats good enough I think. It’s better than having the batts in a bag on a rack like it used to be.

  6. However, on a bit more thought! A lock (should have used that word instead of key before) should be inpenentrable, so a screw-off-collar might be a bad idea, or it might not even exist. Obviously this is dependent on how much security you require.
    Looking forward to the future progress!

  7. @ElectricBikeBuilding Aah! Excellent way to achieve it! 🙂 I’m not familiar with the key you’re using, so I just assumed it’s got a collar screwed on at the front.

  8. Thanks for the compliment. Good question too. The reason for the slot is because I want to be able to remove the batteries easily without disconnecting the key switch wires from the batteries. The wires are taped down and would be a pain to remove and re-install. I should have installed a quick disconnect between the switch and the batteries but went with the slot for now.

  9. only throttle? lucky you! i just checked if this aviable in germany and i found out, that our regulations also stop this bionx from being used only with throttle mode!

  10. True, you don’t normally run at full capacity. I’m just trying t indicate the 1/2 running time expressed would be expected. If you halve the A/Hr being drained you double the running time… 80mins at 250W/Hr from the figures posted by Jimleek. You are indicating a 224W per hour drain is the norm, which would give you that bit extra to boost to 1.5 Hrs.

    I think we are both right 😉

  11. OneManInVan

    i think your calculation is wrong. In electric car or ebike, we don’t calc max amp load, unless you are going up hill none stop. You first calc total watt 36volt x 9.6Ah = 345watt, if you travel at 32km/h, an average ebike will consume 7 watt per km 345 / 7 = 49km in range, that would be 1.5 hour of non pedal riding time.

  12. The battery can delivery 9.6 Amps for one hour (9.6 A/Hr) this means at 14Amps you will exhaust the battery in about 40mins MAX, probably a little less in practice.

  13. I have now owned the bionX for a few weeks. I put about 60 miles a week for 3 consecutive weeks. Mixed feeling on the PL350 system that I purchased. When the battery drain is below half the performance is very weak. If I am riding on setting 3 and going up even a small hill, it is almost no additional help. The most that I have gotten out of the battery is 8 to 10 miles.

  14. Don’t yell at me for being lazy (even though it’s true). My bike and I weigh about 250 lbs total and I commute 20 miles round trip. I’m glad I got the big motor and Li-Mg battery. A guy in a pickup chased me for miles because he wanted to see how I was going so darn fast. He caught me at a red light.

  15. I have the 500W motor which would imply a drain of 14 amps. With heavy drain (only throttle) it lasts less than 1/2 hr. I do not believe the battery puts out anything like 14 amps for very long. Maybe 7; when it’s half drained. After 10 miles it’s gotta get recharged.

    It charges at maybe 2 amps; so it takes 5 times as long to charge as it gets used. The generate feature is bogus (IMHO).

    I like it a lot; but I don’t pretend it can go more than a few miles.

  16. Just thinking of getting one of these to combat my windy 22km ride to work. I’ve heard from some dealers that people are having issues with the spokes breaking after only a few months of use? Is this an issue with these?

  17. Just received a replacement battery which is definitely new. I’m a happy consumer again. Thanks Bionx and my local dealer, Cycle Solutions, 615 Kingston Rd, Toronto, ask for Roger:-)

  18. The “new” battery turned out to be used, with unknown live left. Since the battery is a consumable part I’ve asked the dealer to talk to Bionx had hopefully they will fix my original battery and return it. May have been defective but at least I know its history. Don’t think that’s an unreasonable request, do you?

  19. Yes, both were working. I’ve sent charger and battery back to dealer, hope it doesn’t take to long, I want to ride my Bionx not wait for it to be fixed…

  20. Was the charger working before? Do you check if you blow the fuse? You should contact support where you got your Bionx kit from.

  21. Le moteur en roulant ne donne pas de vibration qu’on peut sentir, a moins d’être a basse vitesse et avoir le throttle au font. Seul le frein génératif donne une certaine vibration. BionX a chaque nouvelle version de motor réussi a réduire sa vibration. Pour ce qui est de la fusible, elle saute si le mosfet a brisé. Mais la fusible est disponible a peitte prix et habituellememt couvert par la garantie BionX.

  22. Les rayons ont une plus grande pression, le moteur 350W donne un peak de 900W, ce qu’un cycliste ne peut pas vraiment donner. BionX s’est ajusté en 2007 avec un rayons Sapim qui est de 13 gage au coude et machiné 14 gage pour le reste du rayons. Ce rayon est fait en Belgique et est vraiment génial

  23. Bonjour Houze29, je crois comprendre que tu as une certaine frustration contre le BionX. Oui BionX a eu un problème de Mosfet en 2006, mais tous le moteurs que les mosfets ont endomagé, le moteur a été remplacé sous garantie.

  24. Bonjour Houze29, je crois comprendre que tu as une certaine frustration contre le BionX. Oui BionX a eu un problème de Mosfet en 2006, mais tous le moteurs que les mosfets ont endomagé, le moteur a été remplacé sous garantie.

  25. mosfet souvent sautee!!!rayons souvent casse…enorme vibration.!roue libre debalancee due au couvercle moteur (tres) mal machine…!!!fusible de la batterie non fiable…TRES couteux…je prefere mes roller blades!!!

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